Sensorily light oil bodies, known as “light emollients”, are used by the cosmetics industry in a multitude of formulations. Especially for decorative cosmetics or in care formulations, what are known as “light” components are used. These components may, for example, be volatile, cyclic silicones (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane or cyclomethicones) or hydrocarbons from petrochemical processes. Owing to their preparation, the latter substances are predominantly mixtures of linear, cyclic and branched hydrocarbons whose flashpoint may quite possibly be below 50° C. (as, for example, in the case of isododecane). Examples and application-related descriptions of such formulations can be found in standard works, for example: “Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology”, A. Barel, M. Paye, H. Maibach, Marcel Dekker Inc. 2001. For toxicological, ecological and safety reasons, however, there will in the future be a demand for alternative raw materials for such formulation tasks.
Substances used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations under the name “mineral oil” include the liquid distillation products which are obtained from mineral raw materials (mineral oil, brown and hard coals) and consist essentially of mixtures of saturated hydrocarbons with linear, cyclic and/or branched structure. These hydrocarbon mixtures must, however, be purified and chemically modified in a complicated manner before they meet the demands on cosmetic raw materials.
It was an object of the invention to find alternative raw materials which are ecologically and toxicologically uncontroversial. More particularly, it was of interest to provide raw materials which can be used directly in cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations without complicated purification steps. These raw materials should preferably be obtainable on the basis of renewable raw materials. These raw materials should be usable directly in typical cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical formulations without application-related restrictions. Furthermore, the raw materials should have improved sensory properties over the hydrocarbon mixtures of the prior art, and it would also be desirable that these raw materials have a better skin compatibility. It was of particular interest to provide raw materials whose possible uses with regard to formulation or sensory properties are comparable to those of silicone oils, especially to those of low-viscosity silicone oils, for example dimethicones. It was desirable, more particularly, to provide raw materials which are suitable as substitutes for silicone oils. It was additionally of interest to provide raw materials which have an improved CO2 balance compared to the prior art raw materials.
It was a further object to provide raw materials which enable a stable formulation with AP/Deo (=antiperspirant/deodorant) active ingredients. Cosmetic formulations for the antiperspirants/deodorants category, especially in so-called “stick formulations”, still have the problem of insufficient stability of the cosmetic base. In this context, one property in need of improvement is the hardness of the “stick formulation” produced. A disadvantage of existing “stick formulations” is that changes in odor arise during storage. It is therefore a further object of the invention to provide raw materials which enable antiperspirant or deodorant formulations, especially those in “stick formulations”, to be provided in stable form. These formulations should not exhibit any undesired evolution of odor, especially in the course of prolonged storage. It was a further object to provide raw materials which impart a sensorily “light” impression, if at all possible with simultaneously improved skin compatibility, especially in combination with UV light protection filters and in combination with self-tanning agents. Of particular interest is the provision of novel raw materials which enable a sensorily advantageous impression in decorative cosmetics formulations. Owing to the site of application (principally face and hands), increased demands are made on the sensory properties, especially the volatility, on formulations in decorative cosmetics, for example lipsticks, eyeshadow, mascara, nail varnish, etc., in order that these products do not give the impression of “heaviness”. In addition, good dispersibility of pigments is desirable in these products.